Q&A: Victor Liong on Going International, Dining in the Future, & The Best Dishes of 2023
Bureau spoke to the acclaimed Melbourne chef, currently in Singapore, where he has recently launched a collaboration with Artyzen Hotels.
One of Australia’s most acclaimed young chefs is also one of the busiest. First arriving on the scene in 2013, the excitement around Victor Liong’s debut Smith Street restaurant and new-style Chinese cooking was palpable. A decade later, that restaurant, Lee Ho Fook, has evolved into a two hatted phenom, now confidently rubbing shoulders with the CBD’s heavy hitters along Flinders Lane.
Along the way, Liong has become the articulate and ambitious face of Chinese cooking in Melbourne, and 2023 has seen another major milestone: international expansion. We spoke to the chef, who is currently in Singapore, about the exciting collaboration, his plans for 2024, and the meals that made his 2023.
1. There's a long, romantic tradition of chefs collaborating with hotels. What is it about entering the hotel world that appealed to you?
The allure of chefs creating restaurants in a hotel space has gone back as far as Escoffier at the Savoy with Cesar Ritz - I've always been amazed by great hoteliers and their drive for excellence in service and memorable experiences - being a good hotel i believe you need to be savvy in all things, food, service, rooms, art, comfort, taste and professionalism. Like in a game of monopoly, getting into a hotel has always been aspirational for me.
2. The Artyzen's signature restaurant, Quenino, pays homage to Singapore's Malaccan Creole Portuguese traditions. How would you describe this cuisine, and what about it inspired the theme?
Artyzen Hotels is a new and emerging brand with Chinese - Macanese origins. Our ownership company helmed by Ms Pansy Ho has roots in the Sino Portuguese business community. Our position in Singapore was the site of a historic mansion Villa Marie, built by an industry titan, philanthropist and botanist. A rich and varied history - the name Quenino is a Kistang (local eurasian/creole dialect) term for bijou/small and boutique. While developing the culinary concept we really leaned into the region's rich and layered cultural history, ingredients that I was inspired by and the cooking styles of the cultures that have been here since the maritime silk road.
Artyzen Singapore houses Quenino by Victor Liong on Level 4 - fine dining tasting menu and Cafe Quenino on ground floor - all day dining a'la carte.
3. Tell us a bit about some of the flavours, ingredients and techniques that are unique to "Straits" cuisine?
Strait's cuisine is one of the original fusion cuisines, a melting pot of local Malay, Chinese, Indian, Portuguese, British, Arabic and sprinkling of French, Indonesian and Borneo influences. The use of spice, herbs, tropical fruit and vegetables, local fresh and dried seafood - the distinctive aromas and cooking style of the region is what we try and capture in showcasing the cuisine.
4. You've always been a very ambitious and collaborative chef, constantly taking on new challenges. Does the prospect of working internationally in addition to your venues in Melbourne daunt you?
I've been fortunate to have been working on my first restaurant project Lee Ho Fook for the last 10 years. It has and still gives me many great opportunities and Melbourne is still very much home for me. Collaborating and working on creative programs will always be something that inspires me in my work - the latest one being with Square One roaster - showcasing northern Chinese flavours and for a great social cause. This project with Artyzen Singapore is intense in its travel and time commitments - but I am able to constantly work like this because my team in Australia and Singapore are supportive and truly amazing. I've been very lucky.
5. Similarly, you've had some setbacks. Chuuka, your foray into Sydney with The Star Group and Chase Kojima, was a pandemic casualty. Do you feel that experience helped you reach this point? What did you learn from it?
Chuuka was a fun and inspiring project and I'm grateful for the opportunity - (the post pandemic strict reopening restrictions in Sydney paired with waterside restaurant rent wasn't a viable option to continue at the time). All projects I learn a great deal from, I'm grateful for the opportunity with the Star - it taught me a lot about organisation management, structure and hierarchy and how to do creative work within large organisations.
6. This Artyzen venture has necessitated plenty of travel to Singapore. What are some of the recent dining experiences you've had there that have stood out? Is there a lesser-known style of food you feel could become popular in Melbourne?
The travel has been good - and the opportunity to eat and explore the food scene in Singapore is one of the many perks of this project. I've had many great Indian meals at all levels from 2 Michelin star to at a hawker stall in a neighbourhood market, as well as very high quality regional Chinese cooking in shopping malls - I think in Australia there is still plenty of space for the lesser known regional cuisines of Asia.
7. Earlier this year you announced SilkSpoon, a second venue in Melbourne. How is this project tracking? How do you see it fitting into your growing stable of venues?
SilkSpoon will come along in Q1 next year - the project is fitting out early next year. I'm excited to create a concept that is an all-day diner, with a vibrant and broader cuisine style than Chinese cuisine, but still with some inspirations and connections to the cuisine I adore. I don't see any other projects except for what I'm working on, on the immediate horizon - I'm busy enough!
8. Do you find it difficult to compartmentalise concepts across various venues? How do you ensure you remain creative?
I learned the concept of compartmentalising earlier in my restaurateur journey - it was extremely difficult to do at the start. I've been pretty good with it these days. I keep my lens wide open for inspiration when I'm out and about and with the notes app I log ideas down for each project day to day. The biggest thing I have noticed is things tend to be more similar than different, and it's my job to gently link them in the cuisine style and cooking at each venue to develop a distinctive style. I love it - to me I live in a world where everything can be beautiful and inspiring. The small downside is it can feel like you're always working, but I love my job, so it's all good!
9. You're now at the vanguard of Australian cooking, and one of the industry's leaders. What's your forecast for 2024? What are some trends and challenges you see the industry facing?
Thanks for considering me a vanguard! I'm always trying to improve - my cuisine, my management style, my communication, my teaching style.
I'm always hopefully optimistic - 2024 I feel we will still face challenges in Australian hospitality - the remote work culture has greatly affected all service businesses in the CBD - my gym, my dry cleaner, my hairdresser has all experienced a challenging period post covid, with many of regular clients working remotely or in a hybrid arrangement, I'm hopeful this shifts in the right direction in the new year.
We're also facing as everyone is aware of a cost-of-living crisis with macro and micro economic factors that are generally not advantageous. My job is to create more memorable experiences and accessible hospitality products with the businesses I'm involved in.
I feel there's some exciting times ahead -
veganism continues to be more relevant
sustainability in more areas outside of immediate food (workplace, packaging, wine making),
non-alcoholic beverages/teas/infusions,
alternate coffee styles (pour over/longer coffee styles - less focus on espresso only)
secondary cuts of meats and preserving (going back to more paired back and simpler cooking techniques)
niche ice cream / dessert /sweet concepts
maximalism in restaurant design and packaging- minimalism will still be around but in everyday/small moment hospitality and services (cafes/barbers/fashion/takeaway)
more world building in hospitality concepts, website, merchandise, membership marketing
QR code ordering and integration with POS/Websites, better usability on the back end so more businesses will adopt as a solution to staffing
Private dining room and private dining in general (both homes and restaurants) - bespoke menus/secret menus
good food and hospitality at unexpected venues (airports, stadiums, events, train stations)
more fun pop ups building a brand is more accessible via pop ups and collabs, building a restaurant is hard.
10. Finally, we're almost at the end of the year. What was the best dish you ate this year? Yes, it can be one of your own.
There have been so many good eats this year, I had a few top 3's - the ones that stand out are:
In Melbourne -
I had the pleasure of dining at Chae - a really thoughtful and focused cuisine, a special place.
The amaretto and orange pudding at Alta in Fitzroy, i think about this dish almost every day
Dining at the bar at La Pinta - the perfect neighbourhood restaurant.
In Singapore -
Amazing meal at Cloudstreet - top 3 of all time
The bone marrow and beef tongue dish at Firangi Superstar, I ate this last night, it was so, so good.
Eel hotpot at Putien at Jewel - I almost always go here before catching a flight back to Melbourne, classic and timeless.
Other special mentions -
Wing in Hong Kong, focused and artistic modern Chinese food
A.Wong in London, what an absolute legend of Chinese cuisine, it was phenomenal.
Clove Club in London - amazing tasting menu, top 3 of all time, and a chance to eat Issac's food for the first time
Cal Pep in Barcelona - vibey, fun and super delicious Spanish seafood tapas place, purity of cooking at the highest level.
Quenino by Victor Liong
9 Cuscaden Rd, Singapore 249719