The Anchovy Toast Interview
Melbourne's most feared memelord speaks to Bureau about the dark side of hospitality, the restaurants they love, and morta-fucking-della.
New media has taken the Australian restaurant industry into some unpredictable areas in recent years, but few could have predicted the rise of the meme as a form of service journalism. In part a reflection on our dwindling attention spans, in part a testament to the innate and immediate nature of the artform, the internet meme has become the modern shorthand for parody. If memes are the modern dialogue of the satirist, then Anchovy Toast is the AA Gill of the Melbourne food scene.
The anonymous Instagram account has risen from amusing observations about overdone restaurant trends to a genuine voice of the industry, speaking out about a litany of issues deemed too taboo to discuss in the public realm. Serial abusers, fraudsters and manipulators have all been called out, the account’s following rising to over 5,000, and made up almost exclusively of local hospitality professionals. Anchovy Toast has become an accidental powerhouse of our town; there would not be a chef or restaurateur in Melbourne who doesn’t fear being the target of one of their memes.
Anchovy Toast spoke to Bureau on condition of anonymity, and their views do not necessarily reflect those of this newsletter (except when they do).
1. Anchovy Toast has risen to become a powerful voice in the Melbourne hospitality community. Tell us a little bit about what inspired the account?
The hospitality industry in Australia lacks accountability. Chefs, restaurant managers, bar managers, and big restaurant groups have used their power to fuck over the little guy for too long, whether it's through wage theft or covered up sexual harrassment or toxic behavior it always just gets swept under the rug and forgotten about. Abusers just go back to what they were doing, fat cats just phoenix their businesses and start again without paying back what they owe, I think someone needs to be there to remind people that it's still happening. It might not change anything now but maybe in the future if I keep it up people might think twice before fucking someone over. And in the meantime I'll pepper in some dumb memes about food trends and Daddy Escoffier for balance.
2. Many of your memes reflect the gritty realities of being a chef. How has your kitchen career informed the tone and content of Anchovy Toast?
Most of the content is based on my own experiences and may not relate to anyone else's, sometimes it's a little risky to post something because it might be something that nobody agrees with, occasionally I'll cop feedback from people upset with my opinion but most of it is just that: my opinion. I am always open to suggestions if people have an experience they'd like people to know about. I'm always happy to receive DMs. Although they don't always pan out, I have to be selective when it could be considered defamation/libel to post.
3. You're also a keen observer of restaurant trends, in particular overdone ones. What are some of your least favourite in recent times?
There are so many to choose from! Obviously anchovy toast is up there, only because it's such a copout to crack a tin of fish, stick one on a cracker or slice of old bread and charge people too much for it. But on top of that, anything thats just poorly prepared or presented and done to death; bad housemade sourdough, burnt focaccia, sub-par savoury choux puffs, burnt basque cheesecake, white bread in restaurants, unnecessary caviar, black truffle on cold desserts, and morta-fucking-della.
4. Similarly, what are some recent food trends you've seen that you've liked?
I don't know if it counts as a food trend but; pop-ups. It's so good to see young chefs do whatever they want for a night or two at a local restaurant or wine-bar, completely unbound by the pressures involved with having to work there day-in and day-out, having to appease regulars and work to COGS to make sure the guy above makes more money. And the food is fucking good, snack-heavy, full of the love and passion that some of the old dogs lost years ago.
5. You've been very vocal about controversial operators in the industry, speaking out against the likes of Shane Delia, Jesse Singh, and the owners of Lume. Do you feel like you have a responsibility to talk about these topics? And have you faced any opposition for your views?
Absolutely to both. When 90% of my followers are in the industry I absolutely have a responsibility to call out these goliaths that not only rip off their staff and customers and suppliers but also have abused people for years and gotten away with it because people are too scared to talk about it, but you better believe they're talking to me. And there are so many I haven't memed for fear of legal action or vigilantes. So many of the big names in Melbourne are abusive, racist, sexist, misogynistic, thieving bastards, and they'll have their day soon. And yeah they have friends that send me messages like "Noooo he wouldn't do that, he's my friend" or people that argue that the abuser is okay because of their contributions to the industry which is just such a dumb, enabling mindset.
6. What changes would you like to see in the restaurant industry?
I'd love to see accountability for businesses that aren't paying staff or suppliers. Not 10 years down the track or after they've shut down and liquidated, but right now. I'd like to see the government look at a business, see they're not paying superannuation and step in and do something about it. Dont tell me you haven't received a contribution, just go and fucking get it, sort it the fuck out. I'd like suppliers to see they havent had invoices paid in a month so they tell the restaurant to get fucked, make them remember who needs whom.
7. Say you've got a rare day off from the kitchen/meme lab. What are some places Anchovy Toast loves to visit?
Ah this is a tough one because I don't want to give away who I am by telling everyone where I spend my days off but there are some places I do genuinely love and appreciate. I'm gonna have to go with Sleepy's, Steve is a gem and you can feel his love everytime you go. It also happens to be a great place for chefs to do pop ups so you see some really interesting and tasty stuff coming out of the kitchen.
8. You've spoken at length about the toxic behaviour in the industry. Why do you think these incidents are so common in hospitality?
The industry has always been like this, recently there's been a push for change but really it's just given the big dogs a chance to post on their instagram stories about #change while continuing their behaviour as usual.
9. Tell us about some figures you admire in the Melbourne hospitality scene; who stands out as examples of people doing it the right way, for the right reasons?
This one's tough because you never really know what happens behind closed doors so anyone I mention could come out in a different light down the track.
I've already mentioned Steve Chan, fucking love the guy. Having not worked directly with them I'd say Shannon Martinez, I have no insight into her business practises but I've heard bits and pieces about what she's had to deal with and she's still here, still doing her thing and fucking killing it.
I know absolutely nothing about the inner workings of La Pinta but I know they make some really nice food that seems disconnected from the wine bar trends of most other northside joints.
10. Finally, what's next for Anchovy Toast? And how do I avoid being the victim of one of your memes?
It honestly doesn't take much to be a meme. I make memes about things I like as much as things I dislike. I guess just don't rip off your staff or customers for millions of dollars and you'll be fine *cough* Vue de Monde *cough* Shane Delia *cough cough*.
Follow Anchovy Toast on Instagram at @anchovy.toast