The Bureau Q&A: Kara Monssen
One of Melbourne's most influential food media figures on the importance of critical reviews.
Being a senior restaurant reviewer is probably not the glamorous dream job that many people would assume it to be. In my limited experience, informed by my career as a hospitality professional and owner, I’ve found the task of being critical of the venues of others to be a challenging thing to navigate.
In a city as concentrated as Melbourne, in which there is a daily print media duopoly, being one of the two senior restaurant reviewers is even harder. Melburnians are tribal, whether it be their football team, or which newspaper they reach for in a cafe. We are divided by so many of the things that also unite us, in particular, our views on food. To speak truly and fairly in this environment requires a certain level of fearlessness, because no matter what you say, people are going to have an issue with it.
Today’s guest on the Bureau Q&A is one of those two senior restaurant reviewers. At a young age, Kara Monssen has risen to be not only the Herald Sun’s Food & Wine editor, but one of the most powerful and influential voices in Australian food media. A review from Monssen can be make or break for a restaurant, and she is not afraid to be truly unsparing in her appraisal. We spoke to Kara about how she started on her path, how the Australian food media is evolving, and the importance of critical reviews.
You’re the Food & Wine editor at The Herald Sun. Has your path to this point surprised you, or have you always wanted to be involved in food media?
I’ve always been a massive foodie, though never imagined I’d make a career out of it. My unrelenting hunger for news journalism won out in the end, especially after breaking a big story while still at uni on AFL players embroiled in a seedy mens-only social media group. They were sharing near-naked images of women without their knowledge. Days after the story broke, the site was shut down, the league apologised and the players involved sanctioned. This was when I learned the power of journalism and how it could bring about change for good in the world. From there, I went on to work in newsrooms across the country, from Gladstone, Qld, to Ballarat, covering everything from crime, courts, industry and for a hot minute, food and restaurants in Ballarat. I love journalism for its ability to give the powerless a voice, shed light on injustices and hold authority to account. Though over the years, covering gruesome stories on child murders and terror attacks, took its mental toll. In 2017 I began writing more lifestyle and food stories. My work caught the eye of the food editor at the time, and I went on to write a weekly drinks column in Taste and cover cafe reviews for the weekend papers. Fast-forward a few years and a couple of WSET courses later, and I stepped into the food and wine editor role.
Was there a particularly formative moment for you that solidified your interest in food? A dining experience, a particular writer or television show?
The short answer is, yes my upbringing, family, watching MasterChef, Nigella Lawson and Jamie Oliver on the telly.
But it was probably when I was given an ultimatum by my boss at the Ballarat Courier: “You can cover police and crime, but you have to also cover restaurants and food.” I reluctantly took him up on the offer, and I’m so glad I did. It changed my life.
Restaurant reviewing, like any sort of criticism, can be a fraught task. What’s your personal process when writing a review? What are your guiding principles?
I created my own reviewing criteria, influenced by what was used before my time at the Herald Sun.
Not only am I judging what’s on the plate and in my glass, but also service, ambiance, x-factor, how the restaurant fits into the current culinary landscape, and above all, deliciousness.
And it’s just not how I’m treated. What’s happening at other tables? Is the food coming out fast? How is the service? Are they enjoying themselves?
There are instances where I will revisit a place especially if things don’t seem right, though that’s not always the case. Ron from Ringwood doesn’t eat at a restaurant three times before he decides he likes it, he’ll make his mind up after one visit and I want my approach to reviewing to reflect the way the general public eat at restaurants.
You’re not afraid to be unsparing when you don’t have a good experience; a recent review of South Melbourne’s Castlerose was particularly brutal. Do you have any reservations about writing such a negative piece, given the effect it can have on a business?
They say the overly positive and negative experiences are the easiest to write about, and that’s true, but man I hate writing bad reviews, especially in this climate where restaurants are closing down and the cost of living crisis cripples the industry.
Although, I’d argue critical reviews are even more important at this time for a number of reasons.
Firstly, I’m writing for my readers, the eating public, who are currently spending an average of $300 per meal out. That’s a lot of money, and that doesn’t include the babysitting fee, Uber ride to and from the restaurant, or hotel room in the city for a night. People may only get one night out a year and I want them to have a truly special experience.
Secondly, it’s also important that traditional media publications are seen to be the authority in a space and time where food reviews can come from anywhere. There are so many ‘restaurant reviews’ that are shared on TikTok and Instagram without the same level of consideration or scrutiny as would go on around the meeting room table.
Lastly, writing critically is uncomfortable, but important to share feedback about the experience with the restaurant. The alternative is far worse. Imagine withholding a restaurant’s shortcomings, or God forbid, the entire review just so I can save face with the owners? It’s not about me, I respect my readers too much.
In a similar vein, what are the things that a restaurant can do to impress you? What are your key criteria for a memorable dining experience?
I love going to restaurants where, as corny as it sounds, you can feel and see the passion, energy and enthusiasm in all they do. It sounds naff, but there are places where this is palpable, where you get a glimpse into the chef’s soul by eating a certain dish. It’s the buzz, energy and, my favourite V word, vibe. Attention to detail is key here.
What’s your overarching view of the current state of food media in Australia? How have you seen it evolve over your time in the business?
Food media is transitioning. Food writers and restaurant critics for traditional media publications are a dying breed. I could count the number of Melbourne, heck even Australian, critics on one hand. Is that a reflection of the way the industry is going? I don’t think so. Newsrooms on a whole, around the globe, are shrinking, but now more than ever, it’s so important to deliver credible information to readers (just look at what’s happening with Meta and sharing news on its platforms).
At the same time, we’re changing the way we consume media. Everything is streamed or accessed in the palm of our hands. Vertical video is the future. Social media platforms such as Tik Tok and Instagram reels are a huge driver of this, so it’ll be interesting to see where we end up in the next few years. I firmly believe traditional media outlets, such as the Herald Sun, will have a presence in this space as people look to trusted news sources for their information.
Let’s chat a bit about the wine side of your job. What are you drinking lately, and who are the producers you’re excited about in 2024?
I shared a bottle of Atze shiraz from the Barossa Valley with some mates over lunch recently and it was astonishingly good. Not as grunty or sweaty as those heifer Barossa Valley reds, more poised and sleek like Rhone syrah. It needed a few hours to decant though.That reminds me, I need to stock up! I’m also hellbent on getting everyone to try Vouvray and Pouilly Fume, or Western Australian cabernet sauvignon from Frankland River for the tannins alone. Also OSSA from Tasmania. (Jeez there are so many goodies out there). The Gruner, pinot and syrah were faultless last vintage, and I cracked the chardonnay over Easter and it was divine.
What are some of your go-to wine shops in Melbourne? And is there a particular bar you seek out when you want to try something new?
Prince Wine Store in South Melbourne is a firm favourite for wine on the run. As is Little Prince Wine, as I know Laurent Rospars will have something delicious from the Loire Valley to share. City Wine Shop is a goodie for a drink-in vino, and predictable yes, but you can trust the crew at Marion to deliver the goods.
Describe your perfect Melbourne day.
My husband and I go for a long walk with a cafe pitstop for a magic (duh) and croissant. Plain or almond only. I’d squeeze in a workout before lunch. What follows is hours of seriously good eating and drinking with our friends, either at home or out (Pipi’s Kiosk, Chauncy, Tipo 00 or Gimlet). We’d stumble into a wine bar after (if we make it) for a bottle or glass of something special; aged chardonnay, syrah, cabernet sauvignon. Finish with a negroni. Wake up with no hangover. Life is good.
You’ve already achieved so much at such a young age. How do you see your career progressing from here? What are some of your goals for the next few years?
I’m living the dream at the moment, but I’d love to explore broadcast opportunities in radio or television. Maybe you’ll see me on your screens soon.
What advice would you have for someone wanting to pursue a similar path to yours?
Come with an insatiable appetite (or thirst) to learn. Don’t be afraid to start in the regions and work your way back to the city. It’ll be there waiting for you. Eat and read widely, order the wine you can’t pronounce and remember going out for dinner never hurt nobody.
Kara Monssen is the Food & Wine editor for the Herald Sun.
You can find her work here, and read her weekly spread, Kitchen Confidential, in the Tuesday edition. Follow Kara on Instagram here.